Wild Caraway
Family of Foragers create unique dining experience in the quiet cove of Advocate Harbour
Once cooked, Dogwood buds have a slightly bitter flavour that’s similar to Amaretto. Oyster Leaf, often referred to as “vegetarian oysters” tastes remarkably like fresh oysters. Sea Parsley, which tastes like celery with a peppery aftertaste, is great in salads and can be used to as a garnish as well.
Sarah Griebel and Andrew Aitken own Wild Caraway Restaurant & Café, tucked away in Advocate Harbour in Cumberland County. They source items for their dishes as locally as possible, often times foraging for mushrooms, wild greens and seaweed close to home. They also keep a garden, growing beets, carrots, lettuce, broad beans and Jerusalem artichokes. After 15 years in business, the result is a one-of-a-kind culinary experience that showcases the best ingredients Nova Scotia has to offer.
“We talked to the locals and found out that marsh greens are edible,” Sarah explains. “Japanese Knotweed grows everywhere … we did an ice clarification with it, then added agar. Andrew made a lemon tart with the Knotweed juice and it was just delicious – the best way we’ve ever cooked with Knotweed!”
In 2023, the restaurant was awarded with Taste of Nova Scotia’s Restaurant of the Year Award. They won for delivering an authentically Nova Scotian dining experience with their locally inspired menu, great Maritime service and of course, and their hospitality to diners who visit from different parts of Nova Scotia, the United States and beyond.
The couple were struggling with the immense amount of work involved in maintaining a lunch and dinner menu, so they switched to dinner only with a set menu that changes every 2-3 weeks. And of course, serving breakfast to those staying in the B&B rooms above the restaurant and the newly erected trio of cottages on the wooded lot behind Wild Caraway.
Their friends at The Flying Apron Inn & Cookery recommended Sarah and Andrew reach out to CBDC for financial support to build the new accommodations. They already knew their CBDC rep, Nick March, who used to visit the restaurant frequently for lunch.
Sarah says the CBDC Cumberland team provided much needed help as they navigated the task of building new cottages on their property.
“I would recommend CBDC to anyone I know,” Sarah says.
CBDC business advisor Nick March reflects on the growth of the business “Wild Caraway Restaurant & Rooms has turned the small community of Advocate Harbor into a dining destination,” He adds “CBDC Cumberland is pleased to have played a role in supporting their continued business growth. We look forward to the continued success of the restaurant with the addition of the new cabins and their increased positive impact on the community.”
It took about 18 months to build the cottages, with Andrew working closely with a carpenter from Parrsboro. They were available to book on May 2nd of this year’s season for Wild Caraway, which runs May to November. Initial feedback from guests has been positive.
“They tell me “You thought of everything!” so that feels good,” Sarah recalls.
Thank you to our Government of Canada partners at the Atlantic Canada Opportunities Agency (ACOA), who collaborate with us to support small businesses and aspiring entrepreneurs. Together, we will continue to build a stronger Atlantic Canadian economy, fostering job growth and strengthening our rural communities.